Like to perches Quattro ESC visit http://mymobilemms.com/OFFTHEGRIDWATER.CA/ESC
The Four In One ESC is a great option for Quadcopters, it has several advantages over individual ESCs.
• Four in One “Quattro” ESCs are available in 20 and 25 amp 2 to 4 cell versions and a 30 amp 2
to 6 cell version.
• The 4 in 1 ESC centralizes all your power wiring and eliminates the need for a power distribution
board or block.
• The thick aluminum plate on the front of the ESC serves as a heat sink which is more than adequate
for normal use.
• The design eliminates DC power wiring to individual ESCs reducing DC magnetic field and
interference to magnetometer.
• The ESC comes with a good length of quality high flex motor wire which terminates in standard bullet
• For use in a quad copter with a controller which has a built in magnetometer the ESC should be
mounted aluminum plate side up..
• The Four in one ESC is great for building new quadcopters or for retrofitting to old ones and it is easy
• Using the available ESC “Throttle Signal Hub” Below all 4 internal ESCs can be programmed
and calibrated at one time.
• On the site I link you to above, the “Hub” comes with the more expensive version of the 20 and 25
amp ESCs. (Get The “Hub”).
• I also (VERY) highly recommend the Hobbywing ESC programmer on the right below for much
• Optional! Calibrate all four ESCs at once using the “hub” and your RC transmitter and receiver.
• Later it is necessary to calibrate the ESC while connected to the APM or Pixhawk, so this step
probably has no benefit.
• At this time for an APM, PX4 or Pixhawk I recommend you skip this procedure and go to
“Programming” the ESC below.
• If you are going to perform this calibration the receiver will need to be temporarily set to standard
(not PPM-Sum) mode.
• The ESC should be installed in your copter and connected to the motors but with props off, motor
direction does not matter now.
• Solder the ESC’s main power and ground wires to your battery power input connector (Do not
connect the battery at this time).
• Connect all 4 ESC signal cables to the “Hub” block in any order but be sure black wires are the – and
white are on the S side.
• Connect the “Hubs” 3 wire cable to your RC receivers throttle channel ensuring signal and ground
are on correct sides.
• Turn on your RC Transmitter and put the throttle stick all the way up to full throttle.
• Connect the battery to the main power connector, (This is the step to return to for a repeat
attempt on any failure below).
• You should hear 3 short beeps followed within 6 seconds by another two beeps (If not disconnect the
battery and try again).
• If above is OK move the throttle all the way down: Two more beeps within 3 seconds indicates
calibration is done.
• If it did not produce the final two beeps when the throttle was lowered, repeat the procedure from
• Once it has produced the final 2 beeps move the throttle up just a bit to see if all 4 motors start at the
• If the motors start at significantly different times, repeat the procedure, otherwise calibration is
• When you are satisfied with the calibration disconnect the main battery and turn off your RC
Connect the Four In One ESC to the Quadcopter
• Mount the ESC with 2 strips of Velcro tape in your quadcopter with the Aluminum plate on top.
• Note in the image below left the 4 in 1 ESC is tucked between the two upper frame plates on my FLIP
• Connect the Motor leads to the four motors based on convenient wire connection (we will remap
them as needed).
• Write down the motor (M1, M2, M3, M4) connected to each ESC signal (S1 – Red, S2 – Orange, S3 –
White, S4 – Brown).
• Plug S1, S2, S3 and S4 ESC leads into the APM, PX4 or Pixhawks M1, M2 , M3 and M4 outputs
according to the data above.
• Make sure the ESC control signal wires are on the correct edge of your autopilots servo buss, APM
and Pixhawk are opposite.
• If you are not using the ESC’s BEC to power the Autopilot Servo Bus, disconnect the red power
BEC wire from the ESC.
• The ESC’s BEC power lead is the center (red) wire of the S3 BEC Signal cable between black – ground
and white – signal.
• If you need to disconnect BEC power remove the pin from the connector and tape it so you can
reconnect it for programming.
• For the PX4 you normally use it’s built in power supply and for the Pixhawk you normally use it’s
supplied power module.
• However, both of these also permit isolating the servo bus power to allow separate power to be
provided for external servos.
• If you are going to use additional external servos you should isolate the bus and leave the ESC’s BEC
red power wire connected.
• If you are using an APM without an additional power supply, leave the red power wire from the ESC’s
Configure the Autopilot with the ESC
• Connect the APM, PX4 or Pixhawk Autopilot to Mission Planner with the USB cable.
• Also ensure there are no propellers installed and connect the flight battery.
• Place the copter on a table in front of you with the rear of the copter nearest you.
• In Mission Planner, select the Terminal Mode tab and select test mode then select Test, Motors.
• The motors should each rotate in a clockwise sequence beginning with the right motor furthest from
• Based on APM notation right front is motor 1 and rotates first then motor 4 then motor 2 then motor
3 as in image above right.
• If the motor order is not correct move the ESC’s signal cables on the autopilot servo bus until motor
order is correct.
• It is important that each of the motors has a similar performance when it is powered up.
• You must ensure that the direction each motor turns is correct as indicated in the above right image.
• If a motor is not turning in the correct direction simply exchange any 2 motor / ESC wire connections
for that motor.
• At this point you can also recalibrate the ESC through the APM and Mission Planner if you feel you
need to do so.
• Disconnect the Battery from the copter and the USB cable from the AutoPilot.